![]() For the price, it’s amazing it comes with a body at all. ![]() The Harley Benton telecaster kit comes with a rudimentary unpainted wooden body. This whole build just turned into an “order this kit and print the parts” level of simplicity. It is so cheap and convenient, I just had to order it. Which adds a checkmark to one of the requirements from the list – worldwide shipping. It’s sold by the German-based Musikhaus Thomann, one of the largest music instrument retailers in the world. Prepare for the kicker of this build – The Harley Benton Electric Guitar Kit T-Style! This kit costs just $79! And it includes all the hardware you’ll need, all pre-wired with simple connectors that simply snap together. ![]() Even if you go with the absolute cheapest options, you will likely spend several hundred dollars. The problem is that buying the components individually will be expensive. Telecaster control plate with a 3-way switch and two knobs.The bridge with an integrated single-coil pickup.The only time this would seem a good solution would be if you find a severely damaged guitar, with the hardware and neck still in decent shape.īuying all the parts individually is definitely a feasible option. Buy a cheap Telecaster guitar and dismantle it for partsīuying a whole functional guitar just to take it apart right away seems like such a wrong and wasteful way to go about this.In general, there are 3 ways to go about this: With the choice being made of going forward with the Telecaster hardware, we have to source all of the parts. In our previous articles, we first talked about 3D printing guitar picks – they worked surprisingly well! And then about printing various guitar accessories, such as capos or strap locks. This massively simplifies the project, as we won’t have to integrate several knobs and switches to the guitar individually. And lastly, the volume and tune nobs, as well as the pickup selector switch, are all mounted on another metal plate and secured to the body with just 2 screws. However, the Telecaster bridge, that’s a different story! This large metal plate not only holds the bottom strings in place, but also integrates the bottom pickup and has up to 5 mounting holes with widely spaced screw holes, allowing for better distribution of the leverage on the bridge across the entire metal plate and the underlying printed part.įurthermore, the Telecaster has only one additional pickup, which makes the wiring and designing easier. Can you guess which one it is?Īll but one of the common guitar designs have a very small bridge, sometimes only held in place with 2 screws. If we take a look at the most common guitar designs, one of the bridges might stand out to you as exceptionally suitable for a 3D printed guitar. It’s usually secured to the body with a couple of screws. The bridge on an electric guitar is a small metal part that holds the bottom end of the strings. Solving the bridge problem though required more thought. Wooden necks are perfectly smooth and straight, have wear-resistant metal frets, and have a truss rod inside, which is used to adjust the relief (concave or convex bow). While you might argue that the guitar will no longer be “fully 3d printed”, the neck is such a key and delicate part of the instrument, it would compromise the entire project if I wanted to print it (even though it is possible). Solving the neck problem was honestly a no-brain decision – I’m going to use a real wooden neck. These 50 kg are trying to fold the guitar in half, trying to rip the bridge from the body, and trying to severely bend the neck. While the sources slightly differ with the information on this, the consensus seems to be that it’s about 50 kg of load, depending on the string gauge (thickness). It should actually play well and be in tune across the whole range, I don’t want to create an unplayable plastic gimmickįrom the beginning, the biggest concern was the force the strings apply to the guitar’s body and neck.This seems like a really tough limitation, but if it’s not printable on a MK3 sized printer, most people won’t be able to print it.All of the pieces must fit on the Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ (25×21×21 cm).The hardware should be easy to source with worldwide shipping.It should be cheap, if I’m spending a lot of money on a guitar, I’m buying a genuine Fender or Gibson.No metal rods for reinforcement or other non-essential hardware.No complicated assemblies of tens of parts, easy to put together.So before I started designing anything, I put down a list of priorities: I want others to be able to easily follow this build and create their own awesome guitar. To understand the thought process – I was designing the guitar with the 3D printing community in mind.
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